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When curating a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says a family member, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Path of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.